A SPECIAL RESIDENCY

CHEF ALEX DAVIES OF GATHERINGS WITH WINEMAKER JAMES OPIE OF BRYTERLATER

ALEX DAVIES
& JAMES OPIE

TWO NIGHTS ONLY
FRIDAY 16TH & SATURDAY 17TH JUNE

BOOKINGS ONLY – BOOK BELOW

Pre Roses and our daughter and a lot of other things we ended up in Omihi shooting for Bryterlater. We then considered moving to the South Island for a bit and Karl and Alex had a little chat about Karl maybe doing some time at Gatherings. Fast forward a few years and we met Alex and his lovely wife Bryony at James & Liv’s wedding. We didn’t know Alex well but after hearing his gushy best-man speech for James we knew we had to get the duo together. 

ON ALEX

Alex is from Essex. He moved to Aotearoa on his 20th birthday. Having freshly landed in the land of the long white cloud he was mostly in search of some mates, he figured chef school might be a good place to make some new friends. After entering the cooking world on a bit of a whim, it turned out he quite liked it and decided to stick with it. In the following years, he cooked around the country, notably doing some solid learning working under Jeremy Rameka of Pacifica, who Alex speaks highly of. Alex then moved to London after the earthquakes and did a bit more kitchen time, working under a couple of St John chefs and the like. Feeling the devastation from afar and wanting to help in the aftermath, Alex returned to New Zealand. The city was in ruins and people’s morale was beyond low and so in a bid to give a little life and joy, Alex started a pop-up pizza spot with a little clay oven in the middle of the city’s rubble. It was of course a raging success, giving tasty bites and some soul back to the people of Otautahi.

The pizza pop-up led to Alex being offered a restaurant partnership, he took the chance and opened Shop 8. She was a gorilla adventure restaurant (think toaster oven) but it gave Alex a proper chance to play chef on his own terms. Enter James. This is where Alex and James’s romance begins. The infamous story goes - James came int to do an interview to run the front of Shop 8 stating that if he got along with the chef he would take the role. Within the first 2 minutes of meeting Alex, he accepted the job on the spot. 

Needing a bit of time out of the kitchen but still furiously passionate about food, Alex decided to go and spend a year working on farms. He wanted to have a better understanding of how good produce came to be and experience growing first-hand. Somewhere in this part of his life, he met his partner Bryony. They used to like getting a drink at a local bar called Vesuvio. One day a very small old space around the corner from Vesuvio came up for rent. Having a refreshed lean on cooking and vegetables from his time working on farms Alex had a clear perspective on his next venture and decided it was time to bring his own thing to life and so he took the lease and Gatherings was born. 

Gatherings really was before it’s time. Christchurch had basically no dining scene and Alex opened a relationship-based, genuinely seasonal, farm-to-table largely vegetarian restaurant serving low-intervention natural wines long before “natty” wine was coined. With its original approach to both food and wine Gatherings has continued to grow and evolve with Alex and the everchanging produce scape he works with. 

When lockdown hit Alex cooked at home more than he ever had in his whole life. This led his food to have a comfort lean, he allowed his plates to be a little less chef-y and a little more nostalgic. The thing about a good idea with good intentions is that you need self-belief and good people to make it work, Alex knows this. He is no doubt a ruthlessly hard worker and brilliant cook but he also is willing to let his food and Gatherings develop as it needs to and that means creating strong trusting working relationships. As he continued to learn about Aotearoa’s food landscape he added Kaimoana to the menu. Alex’s good friend Theo Coles of the Hermit Ram has also continued to inform the ever-developing wine list. 

Alex has built a pretty remarkable legacy with Gatherings, pioneering a food scene in a city having a bloody tough time and bringing fresh innovative people and ideas together long before they were officially “cool”. Just last year a slick little wine bar called Londo, even parked up next door. We saw Alex and his family having dinner there the day before James & Liv’s wedding. We asked Alex what’s on the horizon for Gatherings? And to our relief (as people who barely have the energy to think beyond the next week!) he said he didn’t know but that it had evolved organically to the point it's at now - so he reckons hes just going to keep that going.

Alex, Bryony, and their daughter Hazel live in Central Otautahi with their very small dog Ruby. 

Alex’s favourite flower is the Sunflower.

ABOUT JAMES

Everyone we host at Roses is almost always connected in some way to someone else we have hosted - be that in the kitchen or as a customer. James & Alex are no exception. 

We met James a few years back when we went down to Omihi to shoot some photos for his wine label Bryterlater. We all got on merrily, with Karl and James bonding immediately over a shared love for Steinlarger. Earlier in the year we went back to Omihi to shoot again - but this time to capture James & Liv’s wedding. 

James is Australian (very Australian). James grew up with things always growing around him. His mum always had a thriving vege patch and growing their own food where possible was simply a part of his upbringing. In his early 20s, he was in Bendingo working in restaurants and surrounded by lots of friends working on farms. James always felt he was going to be a viticulturist with that green thumb deep in his bones. 

James went on to do his first vintage in Australia at a family friend's vineyard. Following that, he decided he needed to really make sure wine was where we wanted to go and so he hit Europe where he completed two vintages in France and Germany which we got to - via bike. Confident he was chasing the right path he ventured back to the Antipodean world for some official wine education and ended up at Lincoln in Christchurch. 

James’s intention was to start his studies in Aotearoa and then scoot back to Australia but he fell in love with the Waipara region and the rest is history. During his time at Lincoln, he worked for Black Estate and also at Shop 8 where he met one of his work husbands - and our guest chef Alex Davies, of Gatherings.

At the end of his degree, James met his wife, Liv. Knowing she was going to be the one, he figured he could probably boost off for a year to do an ambitious four vintage seasons in one year tour. No small feat. The tour saw James through Tasmania, the south of France, the UK and then Malborough. On his return, he moved to Auckland to be with Liv and didn’t a stint at Villa Maria but it just wasn’t quite his cuppa tea so they headed off back to the South Island. Since then James has worked at a bunch of reputable Canterbury vineyards before creating his own label Bryterlater.

The nice thing about getting to work with winemakers (especially those producing low-intervention small runs) is that you learn there really is a hell of a lot of thought that goes into these bottles. 

Wine is often talked about in terms of technique, how the grapes and grown, and what you then do to them to create xyz taste. Although James does have a formal understanding of viticultural (and one he feels is useful to have) he isn’t obsessing over which process and technique to apply and instead finding ways to encapsulate what the land is producing (which is different every year and every season). When wine is made in the way that James is making it - gently and in response to the unique qualities of what each vintage produces, naturally - the wine that is created is authentically an expression of the land, and James’s expression of the past.

James talks about making wine, in the same way lots of artists think about making art. There is a formal knowledge backbone and it's coupled with intention and concept but ultimately intuition and instinct finish the job. 

When we asked James how he decides what to do with the grapes, he said that it was genuinely difficult to explain but that on the deepest level possible he sort of just knows. James feels his biggest inspiration doesn’t come from other wines being produced around him - or those he has tried in the last decade but rather the ancient processes used in historical winemaking. Inside the winery, James adheres to minimal intervention practices, in an endeavour to offer wines that speak for themselves, rather than the ego of their maker. He acknowledges whatever the season gives and uses it to guide the process and decisions.

James works thoughtfully in the vineyard, using organically farmed grapes from select sites within the North Canterbury region. He believes a true expression of the season is not possible without being organic. 

James is bringing a special opportunity to Roses, by offering tasters of the same grape varieties across two different vintages. Wine made naturally is often perceived as something that is made recently and drunk almost instantly after creation but James is giving you the unique chance to sample organic, additive-free aged wine. This unique approach presents a moment to quite literally taste the land. 

Over time we have come to understand that wine often seems to be made on a tension or balance, with thoughtful makers feeling and moving through vintages with philosophy, instinct and feeling present in equal measure. James’s intention with his wine is to create deeply considered, juicy wines that capture the energy of the vineyard, and of course to bring immense joy to the beholder. We know he will not disappoint. 

James and Liv live in Otautahi with their very sweet cat Joni and their very large dog Towns. 

James’s favourite flower is the daisy.

BOOK BELOW

FRIDAY 16TH & SATURDAY 17TH JUNE

We donate 5% of all profits to our residents charity of choice. The charity for this event is a relief fund for the Hawke’s Bay as a result of cyclone Gabrielle.